Weaving the labouring landscape in the Sri Lankan apparel industry: Conversing with reviewers

Garments without Guilt? Global Labour Justice and Ethical Codes in Sri Lankan Apparels. Kanchana N. Ruwanpura. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, UK, 2022, pp. xxvi +198. ISBN 978-1-108-83201-4 (hbk). 2022: An author's nightmare to some extent: a book is finalized during COVID published, while the pandemic shows no visible signs of dispersing, despite break speed vaccine discoveries inoculation drives. As if these global challenges itself are not exhausting enough, then country study, this time Lanka, defaults on its debt, which first for post-independence history. Against bleak backdrop, inspiringly, witnesses an unprecedented uprising public mobilization people, including workers, with upshot that corrupt family regime seemingly usurped powers. The exhilaration, fear, hope anxieties months (from April August 2022) had, it safe say, almost all Lankans thrall. Introducing promoting one's own recent (January falls off radar; neo-liberal subjectivity-making academics stripped away by force circumstances. Yet, like anxious authors, at back my mind, there niggling how being received reviewed peers. I am just grateful editors, such as Shaun Lin (in instance), took what may have otherwise been shared burden promote book. From before aragalaya (people's struggle) disappears into ether December 2022 e-mail from Singapore Journal Tropical Geography takes me pleasant surprise. Not only finally reviewed; two luminaries their fields—human/labour geography social anthropology—being generous, kind magnanimous readings It course especially means world, when founding star labour geography, Andrew Herod, positively endorses also lot three hectic, busy, overworked schedules read review book; esprit de corp, foundation academic collegiality, wholly appreciated me. This gratitude extends Lin, Nura Aziz Carl Grundy-Warr, fellow editor another journal (Gender, Place Culture), understand editing work since onset COVID. Hence, them too supporting efforts, never smooth women colour academia. against backdrop appreciation offer reflections reviewer comments Andy Rebecca Prentice, Peter Lund-Thomsen, each using home disciplines, human anthropology, business studies, respectively, appraise These disciplinary strictures, view, shape commentaries reactions offered, so take up few salient points offered. My purpose rehearse Prentice Lund-Thomsen outlined but rather speak key thematic clarifications reflections. Herod offers detailed substantive importance centralizing role our research industrial relations, does. He rightly underlines those us adopt perspective, helps dislocate orthodox treatments neo-classical Marxist thought treat labours variable inputs. Moreover, standard assumption value upgrading will trickle down [as most accounts production (GPN) chains (GVC) do (McGrath, 2018)]; policies promoted drafted postulations mind upended. favouring bias towards capital than workers. In apparels, deficiency persists too, precisely neglect has compelled workers constantly agitate stake rightful place landscape. And doing so, apt agents change helped cultivate industry's mantle ethical producer, impetus trading garment supply chain became aspired norm. cultivation apparel landscape, however, spatially varied, draw out experiences north east Lanka shaped war trauma militarized capitalism lurks, often unremarked. found rewarding, someone trained geographer [economics (heterodox) development studies], leading would commend ‘wonderful spatial sensibility concerning making landscape [that] permeates her narrative…’. praise should really be extended former colleagues Southampton (Peter Sunley, Nick Clarke, Neil Wrigley, Steven Pinch, Suzy Reimer, Darby, Langdon, Mary Edwards, Geoff Verteuill, especially) providing conducive encouraging where on-the-job training transition discipline was made possible. Without magnificent support education learning working outlined, she able appreciate even history struggles pivotal—and continue be—in shaping advocate themselves, uneven application code regimes mean paid living wages. absence wages particularly come haunt apparels—to extent COVID-19 on-going debt crisis (Ruwanpura, 2022; Wickramasingha De Neve, 2022). Despite various accolades credentials held sector, poverty become pronounced country's put sharp relief, tenuous grounds ethicality forte apparels. Or say differently, wages, several other codes, health well-being excessive hours, workplace harassment, compromised unfolds. fragility codes running theme book, apparels lauded responding state directives, turn acts collective voices refuse unheard. underlying one appreciates his book—as well he kindly remarks ethnographic ‘underlines continuous, longitudinal in-depth studies sourcing locality’ (Lund-Thomsen, 2023: 361). appreciation, concerns. One around ‘whose ethics?’ empirical validity hub. Is more Bangladesh or Pakistan, instance? concern fair one, although addressing require length treatment own, Neve (2009) socialist feminist philosopher Iris Marion Young (2011) offered governance justice initiatives varying degrees. Should current work? Yes, sure. However, purpose—my aim modest effort trying appreciate, puts ‘to show played significant roles industry’ (Herod, 357). use point departure because they, (2023) notes, favoured corporate regulatory mechanism sector. Countering Lund-Thomsen's second simpler. First, argue—nor did contend—that sector Pakistan. Instead, interrogate closely claims stick better due agency process. Next, careful reader picked point, were already ahead game came existence terrain. regard, maintain vanguard, existing (using ETI—ethical initiative) cornerstone governing manufacturing. hence yet set criteria, exist multiple. Nonetheless, we need engage comparative across region look trite LEED certified factories establish (even though purpose)? beg differ. same period study (2008−2018), number factory collapses fires Pakistan (to name few) follows: Rana Plaza, Spectrum, Tazreen, Garib Newaj, Ali Enterprises. Contrast apparels: zilch. assess hub ‘more ethical’. evaluation, exercises supplier ethically sound, justifiable programme. always give voice centralize explore, (2021) ‘the complex neoliberal regulation reproducing geographies development’. ultimately satisfying task champion agency, struggle needs articulation reshaping capitalist processes. urgent now, ever, given South (including Bangladesh, Lanka) catalyst opening democratic values incorporated any post-crisis settlement.1 hard remains done.